VIET-NAM JACKET / SAIGON

The Souvenir Jacket, or sukajan, was first embroidered by the Japanese for American soldiers during the occupation and was initially sold in street stalls before later appearing at Post Exchanges on military bases. The Yokosuka Navy Yard, from which the name sukajan is derived, was one of the main arsenals of the Imperial Japanese Navy leading up to the Second World War. After the war, the base was occupied by US forces, and the surrounding area became a center of souvenir production.

Early sukajan were often standard flight jackets that had been directly embroidered, but as their popularity grew, traditional kimono makers began producing Varsity-style jackets from surplus parachute silk or nylon. These brightly embroidered jackets continued to be sought after as souvenirs by troops stationed in Korea and later in Vietnam.

In Vietnam, however, the style evolved. The commemorative jackets produced there differed from the vivid Japanese examples, taking on a darker, more utilitarian character. These jackets, commonly known as “Viet-Nam jackets” or “tour jackets,” were often made in black cotton twill, with white being extremely rare. Most white versions are believed to have been custom orders placed by soldiers. Black examples were likely produced in large numbers at street stalls across Vietnam, with embroidery added either at the point of purchase or through custom requests.

The motifs followed a kind of template: maps of Vietnam, the character 福, tigers, dragons, and slogans marking the soldier’s tour of duty. 福 relates to the deity Fukurokuju, while the tiger was regarded as a sign of good fortune. Many jackets also featured the classic motto, “DON’T TELL ME ABOUT VIETNAM, BECAUSE I HAVE BEEN THERE.” Some pieces were constructed from materials supplied directly by soldiers, such as camouflage poncho liners, parachute cloth, or fabric taken from sleeping bags or áo dài, which would classify these as full custom orders.

To achieve the distinctive appearance and texture of our VIET-NAM jacket, we have used a two-stage dyeing process whereby the yarn is dyed first, then the completed fabric is over-dyed. The twill is woven at a very low tension to a custom specification, giving the surface its unique character.

The jacket is lined in a luxurious custom-produced rayon and constructed with vintage techniques. It features the characteristically rough embroidery seen on original examples, applied to the front, back, and sleeves.

• Low-Tension 100% Cotton Twill Fabric
• Rayon Lining
• McCoy's Original Double Sided, Aluminum Alloy, Cotton Tape Zip
• Embroidery on Front, Back, and Sleeves
• Cotton Sewing Thread Construction
• Made in Japan